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Lhotse Expedition

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Duration

54 Nights/ 55 Days

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Tour Type

Daily Tour

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Group Size

2-15 people

Overview

Mt. Lhotse was climbed by a Swiss expedition in 1956. Its lower peak, mount Lhotse Shar 8383m, sometimes considered a separate 8000m peak, Mount Lhotse, which means “South peak” is a part of the Everest massif, just to the south of Everest. The primary route on mount Lhotse is via Everest’s South Col. But by 1955, despite the activity on Mount Everest, Lhotse was the highest unclimbed peak in the world.

The first attempt on Mount Lhotse was by an international team in 1955. One member of the party was Erwin Schneider; during this expedition, he began work on the first of the series of high-quality “Schneider maps of the Everest region”. The same Swiss party that made the second ascent of Everest in 1956 made the first ascent of Mount Lhotse from a camp just below the South Col.

Mount Lhotse Shar was first climbed by an Austrian expedition in 1970. Japanese, South Koreans, and Germans attempted from various routes on its main peak. Poles and Italians also climbed the summit before the summit was reached again by German expeditions in 1977.

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HIGHLIGHTS

  • Mount Lhotse is the fourth highest peak in the world.
  • Mount Lhotse has a very dramatic south face and is the steepest south face to climb.
  • Recorded as one of the most challenging climb in the world.
  • Glorious views of magnificent peaks like Mt. Everest, Mt Cho-Oyu, Mt Ama Dablam, Mt Nuptse, Mt. Pumori, Island Peak, Thamserku, and other peaks.
  • Experience the thrilling adventure in the Snow covered region to climb the formidable Lhotse South wall and view the bewitching sceneries.
  • Learn and get insights on traditional Sherpa lifestyle, culture, architecture, art, dresses, harmony and many others.

Itinerary

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Day 1: Welcome to Kathmandu

Day 2: Explore Kathmandu

Day 3: Prepare for Expedition,

Day 4: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla, Trek to Phakding (8,563 feet / 2,610 m)

Day 5: Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (11,290 feet / 3,440 m)

Day 6: Trek to Khumjung, (3790m )

Day 7: Acclimatization day in Khumjung, (3790 m )

Day 8: Trek to Tengboche Monastery, ( 3867 m.)

Day 9: Trek to Dingboche, 4347m.

Day 10: Trek to Lobuche, 4900m.

Day 11: Trek to Everest Base Camp, 5357m.

Day (12-47) : Climbing Period. ( Day 12- 47)

Day 48: Cleaning up Base Camp.

Day 49: Trek to Dingbuche, ( 4,410 m)

Day 50: Trek to Khumjung, ( 3,790 m )

Day 51: Trek to Phakding ( 2,610 m)

Day 52: Trek from Phakding to Lukla, ( 2,860 m)

Day 53: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu

Day 54: Explore Kathmandu

Day 55: Depart Kathmandu

Included/Excluded

  • 5 Nights accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & Breakfast (hotel 3 star).
  • Permit fee of Lhotse 8516m Expedition
  • Food for Trekking and Expedition period for Lhotse
  • Staff: Base camp Guide, Cook, Cook helper
  • Porters or Yak porter Lukla to Base camp & Base camp to Lukla
  • Kathmandu -Lukla - Kathmandu flights with Cargo 60 KG Per member
  • Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer, expedition crew
  • Insurance for Nepalese expedition crew.
  • 1 tent for 1 person for Expedition
  • Mat, dining tent, Toilet tent, Mess tent, Store tent, Table and chairs trekking for the expedition
  • Local transportation in Kathmandu (Airport-hotel-airport)
  • Emergency Oxygen -Mask and regulator
  • Satellite phone (Pay calls)
  • Fare Well dinner
  • Personal equipment for climbing & trekking
  • Personal & medical Insurance of expedition
  • Climbing food, Gas & stove above Base camp
  • Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
  • Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter incase needed
  • Walkie Talkie permit & Satellite phone permit
  • Oxygen & Mask -regulator
  • Personal expenses like; Bar Bills & beverage
  • Garbage Deposit and Deposit fee will be not refunded if the clients (climber) don't take back their garbage to Namche Bazaar & Kathmandu.

Tour's Location

FAQs

Previous Experience/ Fitness
The technical difficulty of this climb is not high, but it is physically demanding with long days and sections with a lot of exposure. The trip is ideally suited to strong, experienced climbers who want to climb the peak in its own right, or to use the trip to gain experience for higher peaks in the future. To move efficiently and enjoyably we recommend you have experience of Alpine PD+/AD routes and /or an ability to climb Scottish grade 1/ll winter routes and previous experience of altitude of at least 4800m before.
A typical trekking day
Starts around seven am (not a problem as it’s usual to go to bed early!) with you packing your overnight gear into a kit bag before enjoying a hearty breakfast ready to leave camp whilst it’s still fairly cool. The pace on the trek will be leisurely with plenty of time to enjoy the scenery, take photos, chat to the locals and keep hydrated. Lunch is usually in a fine spot by the side of the trail and, most days, you will be arriving at our overnight camp mid afternoon ready for a well earned cup of tea. This leaves an hour or so to rest or explore before a three course evening meal. It is quite remarkable what the locals can produce in these remoe circumstances.
Weather Condition
The Post and Pre monsoon conditions experienced from October into mid-December. April-May are usually very fair, dry and stable. Daytime temperatures are pleasantly warm in the valleys (20-30C) whilst cool to very cold (especially with wind chill) high on Baruntse. Night time temperatures are cold to very cold (possibly as low as minus 30C) and you should make sure you have a very warm sleeping bag (-30c), an expedition weight down jacket and good quality down mitts.
Cathering Arrangement
Food on the trek and at Base Camp is excellent and designed to stimulate your appetite despite frequent altitude induced loss of appetite. Breakfast includes porridge and cereal followed by eggs (fried, boiled poached or omelettes) and either bread or chapattis with jam, honey, peanut butter etc. Lunch starts with juice and may include chips, rice, lentils, vegetables, salad, sandwiches, beans, tinned fish and tinned meat. Dessert is usually fresh/tinned fruit and tea. The evening meal always starts with soup (often with a healthy dose of garlic to aid acclimatisation) accompanied by poppadums, popcorn or prawn crackers. The main meal varies from local style – Dal Bhat (rice and lentils with an onion and vegetable sauce), Yak stew, momos etc. to western style – yak burgers, chips, pasta, even pizza! Desserts are equally appealing and include apple pie, cake, custard etc. You will not be hungry! Once on the mountain we use dehydrated meals supplemented by chocolate, muesli bars, cheese, nuts, salami, etc
Important – The small print
Please note, flights to and from Lukla can be delayed due to the weather. Please be patient and bring a good book to read. If the flight is delayed overnight accommodation is included on a B&B basis. In cases of longer delays, optional helicopter flights are sometimes offered at an extra cost.
Altitude
Our itineraries generally allow sufficient time for your body to acclimatise. The best way to avoid any problems is to do everything slowly, walk at a gentle steady pace and drink plenty of fluid. Our leader will give an appropriate briefing on arrival.

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